Inflammatory
Acne
Acne is one of the most common skin conditions in the world. It affects teens and many adults, and it is usually manageable.
Reviewed by Raashid Haque, MD, board-certified dermatologist
For education only. This guide does not diagnose or treat any condition.
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2-minute quizSkin care picks for Acne
Tap a category to see what to look for and the products I recommend.
Both ingredients target the bacteria, oil, and clogged pores behind breakouts.
Look for
- Salicylic acid (about 0.5% to 2%) or benzoyl peroxide (about 2.5% to 5%) listed as the active ingredient
- Fragrance-free and alcohol-free
- Labeled non-comedogenic
Full details, cautions and sourcesAvoid
- Scrubbing beads or brushes
- Using two different acne washes and leave-ons together without guidance
- Letting benzoyl peroxide touch towels, pillowcases, or colored clothes while wet
These are products Dr. Haque has reviewed and recommends for different reasons. Unless a product is clearly marked 'Affiliate link,' it is not one. Most are not.
Food and lifestyle may play a part in Acne too
Anti-inflammatory eating and lifestyleLearn about Acne
Acne vulgaris is a condition of the hair follicles and their oil glands. Oil, dead skin cells, and normal skin bacteria can block and inflame follicles. This leads to several kinds of spots:
- Blackheads and whiteheads (clogged pores)
- Papules and pustules (red bumps and pimples)
- Nodules and cysts (deep, firm, often painful lumps)
Acne most often starts in the teen years, when hormones make oil glands more active. It is not only a teen problem. Many people have acne in their 20s, 30s, 40s, and beyond. Adult acne is more common in women and often shows up along the jawline, chin, and lower face. It may flare around periods, and it may be linked to hormone changes.
On lighter skin, active spots often look pink or red. On brown and Black skin, they may look dark brown, purple, or the same color as the skin, so redness can be easy to miss. After a spot heals, many people with brown and Black skin are left with flat dark marks called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. These marks can last months and often bother people more than the pimples. Some acne can also leave scars, which can be pitted or raised.
Acne is not contagious. It is not caused by dirt or by washing too little. Scrubbing hard does not clear it and can irritate the skin. Acne often rises and falls over time.
Self-care
What it is
A simple routine of gentle washing, non-greasy products, and keeping hands off the spots.
Often considered when
Almost always discussed as a base for any other plan, in mild or severe acne.
Less suitable or needs caution when
Not a stand-alone answer for deep, painful, or scarring acne.
What to watch for
Harsh scrubbing, many products at once, and picking can irritate skin and leave marks. Burning or stinging may be a sign of irritation.
How long to judge it
Habits help over weeks. Judge overall progress over about 2 to 3 months.
Questions to ask
- Is my current routine helping or irritating my skin?
- Which product labels, such as non-comedogenic, are worth looking for?
- How can I avoid picking without feeling stressed about it?
Over the counter
What it is
Products sold without a prescription, often with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. Some retinoid-type ingredients, such as adapalene, are also sold over the counter in some places.
Often considered when
Often considered for mild acne with blackheads, whiteheads, and a few pimples.
Less suitable or needs caution when
May be less suitable for very sensitive or dry skin, or for moderate to severe acne. Benzoyl peroxide can bleach fabric and hair. Check with a clinician about use in pregnancy or with allergies to any ingredient.
What to watch for
Dryness, peeling, redness, and stinging are common. On brown and Black skin, irritation can lead to dark marks. A rash, swelling, or severe burning is not expected and should be checked.
How long to judge it
Many people judge these over 6 to 8 weeks or more, since new spots keep forming.
Questions to ask
- Which over-the-counter ingredients fit my skin type?
- How do I lower the chance of irritation or dark marks?
- When should I move on to a prescription option?
Prescription creams and gels
What it is
Medicines applied to the skin, such as retinoids (for example tretinoin), topical antibiotics combined with benzoyl peroxide, and azelaic acid. Some newer topicals work on hormone signals in the skin.
Often considered when
Often discussed for mild to moderate acne, or when over-the-counter products have not been enough.
Less suitable or needs caution when
Retinoids are generally avoided in pregnancy, and topical retinoid use while pregnant or planning pregnancy should be discussed with a clinician. Topical antibiotics are usually paired with another product so bacteria do not become resistant.
What to watch for
Dryness, peeling, and sun sensitivity can occur, especially early on. A short period of looking worse is sometimes reported. Brown and Black skin can show dark marks after irritation.
How long to judge it
Often judged after about 8 to 12 weeks.
Questions to ask
- Which topical type might suit my acne and skin tone?
- How do I limit irritation while my skin adjusts?
- What should I do about sun protection and pregnancy plans?
What it is
Dark marks (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) often fade slowly, and approaches include daily sun protection, azelaic acid, retinoids, and procedures. Pitted or raised scars are treated differently from marks.
Often considered when
Often discussed once acne is better controlled, or when marks and scars bother you or are noticeable on brown and Black skin.
Less suitable or needs caution when
Strong peels, lasers, or bleaching-type products can worsen color in some skin tones. Some ingredients are not advised in pregnancy.
What to watch for
Irritation can make dark marks worse. Sun exposure can darken them. Avoid products that cause burning.
How long to judge it
Dark marks often take months to fade. Scars may be improved but not always erased.
Questions to ask
- Are these dark marks or true scars?
- Which options are safe for my skin tone?
- How long should I expect fading to take?
Procedures
What it is
Treatments done by a clinician, such as chemical peels, light or laser therapy, microneedling, extraction of clogged pores, and injections into large nodules.
Often considered when
Often considered as an add-on for stubborn acne, scars, or dark marks, or for a painful nodule that needs quick relief.
Less suitable or needs caution when
Some procedures can cause color change or scarring, especially in brown and Black skin if the wrong type or strength is used. They are often delayed during isotretinoin or with active infection, and sun exposure matters.
What to watch for
Redness, swelling, peeling, and temporary or lasting dark or light marks. Ask about downtime and results in your skin tone.
How long to judge it
Often several sessions are needed, with results judged over months.
Questions to ask
- Which procedures have a good safety record in my skin tone?
- How many sessions might I need, and what would they cost?
- Should I wait on any procedure because of other acne medicines?
Pills
What it is
Antibiotic pills from the tetracycline family, such as doxycycline, that calm inflammation and acne bacteria.
Often considered when
Often considered for moderate to severe inflammatory acne, usually along with a topical medicine and for a limited time.
Less suitable or needs caution when
Tetracycline-type antibiotics are generally avoided in pregnancy and in young children. Allergies and other medicines matter.
What to watch for
Stomach upset, sun sensitivity, and rarely other reactions. Long use can contribute to antibiotic resistance, so clinicians usually aim to limit how long they are used.
How long to judge it
Often judged after about 2 to 3 months, with regular follow-up.
Questions to ask
- How long might I need this, and what is the plan after?
- Which topicals should I pair with it?
- What side effects should I report right away?
What it is
Medicines that affect hormone signals, such as combined birth control pills or spironolactone, used for acne in some women.
Often considered when
Often discussed for adult female acne, flares around periods, jawline acne, or when signs of hormone imbalance are present.
Less suitable or needs caution when
Not suited to everyone. Combined hormonal pills are not right for people with certain clot, migraine, or blood pressure histories or who smoke. Spironolactone is not used in pregnancy, and kidney or potassium issues matter.
What to watch for
Possible side effects include cycle changes, breast tenderness, dizziness, or blood pressure and potassium changes depending on the medicine. Birth control is generally needed with some of these medicines.
How long to judge it
Often takes 3 months or more to judge.
Questions to ask
- Is a hormonal option reasonable for me given my health history?
- Do I need any tests or blood pressure checks?
- What should I know about pregnancy plans?
What it is
A strong vitamin A-related pill, taken for a set period, that can lead to long clearing in many people. It is a medicine class with strict safety programs.
Often considered when
Often discussed for severe or nodular acne, acne that scars, acne that has not responded to other treatments, or acne causing major distress.
Less suitable or needs caution when
It can cause serious birth defects, so it must not be used during pregnancy, and in the United States it is handled through a safety program called iPLEDGE. It is also not suitable for some people with certain liver, lipid, or other health conditions.
What to watch for
Common effects include very dry lips and skin, dry eyes, and sun sensitivity. Clinicians monitor with regular visits and blood tests. Mood changes have been reported, and people are usually asked to tell their clinician about any mood concerns.
How long to judge it
A typical course lasts several months, and results often keep improving after it ends. Follow-up is close.
Questions to ask
- Am I a good candidate, and what are the alternatives?
- What safety program steps and tests would apply to me?
- How will we watch for mood changes and other side effects?
Lifestyle and holistic
What it is
Some people look at food, sleep, and stress as part of a wider plan alongside medical care. The evidence is mixed, and these steps are not a replacement for treatment.
Often considered when
Sometimes discussed when someone wants extra steps to support skin health or notices a personal pattern.
Less suitable or needs caution when
Strict or restrictive diets can be hard to keep up and may lack key nutrients, especially in teens, so they are best discussed with a clinician or dietitian first.
What to watch for
Cutting out whole food groups can affect health and mood. Track whether a change helps rather than assuming it will.
How long to judge it
Any effect, if present, may take 2 to 3 months to notice.
Questions to ask
- Is there a food or habit change worth trying for me?
- Could a restrictive diet be a problem for me?
- How can I tell if a change is really helping?
Acne has many contributors, and they differ from person to person. Things people and clinicians often point to:
- Hormone changes, such as puberty, periods, pregnancy, or conditions like polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS)
- Family history, which is a strong factor
- Friction and pressure, such as helmets, chin straps, face masks, phones, and tight collars
- Heavy or oily products, including some hair oils and pomades that touch the forehead
- Some medicines, such as certain steroids or hormone products
- Stress and poor sleep, which some people notice before flares
- Picking and squeezing, which can raise the risk of marks and scars
Triggers are clues, not proof. Keeping a simple log can help you and your clinician spot patterns.
| Topic | Evidence | What it means |
|---|---|---|
| Low glycemic load eating | Promising | Studies suggest that diets with fewer high-sugar, fast-digesting carbohydrates may help some people's acne, but the research is limited and results vary. It is not a replacement for medical treatment. |
| Dairy | Early | Some studies link milk, especially skim milk, with more acne, but the link is not proven and may not apply to everyone. Cutting out dairy has not been shown to be needed, and replacing it should keep calcium and nutrients in mind. |
| Stress and sleep | Early | Many people notice flares during stressful or sleep-poor times, and stress may affect hormones that influence oil glands. Research on whether improving stress or sleep clears acne is limited, though good sleep supports overall health. |
| Mental health impact | Established | Acne can affect self-esteem, mood, and social life, and this impact is well documented. It is reasonable to bring up feelings of sadness or anxiety with a clinician, because support and acne care can go together. |
Read: Anti-inflammatory eating
Avoid very restrictive diets, especially for children, unless a clinician is guiding you.
Acne ·
When to get care soon
- Deep, painful nodules or cysts, or acne that is leaving scars or dark marks
- Acne that has not improved after several weeks to a few months of steady care
- Sudden, severe acne in an adult, especially with a deeper voice, excess hair growth, hair thinning, or irregular periods
- Signs of infection, such as spreading redness, warmth, pus, fever, or a tender, swollen area
- Acne that affects mood, school, work, or social life, including feeling very down or anxious
- Acne that started after a new medicine or supplement
- Any breakout you are not sure is acne, such as bumps that itch a lot or look the same on every hair follicle
- Sudden acne in a baby or young child, which should be checked by a clinician
About the reviewer
Raashid Haque, MD
Board Certified Dermatologist · Charlotte, NC
- 25+ years of clinical experience
- Dermatology at University of Oklahoma - Chief Resident
- Internship at Baylor College of Medicine
- LSU School of Medicine Shreveport - Valedictorian, AOA